Essay – Photography – Design

2022

Intro:

In 1990, in the heart of Burri in Khartoum city, a group of 30 women has gathered to form a neighbourhood association. A tradition that has been happening in Sudan for quite some time and continues to live within the females’ communities. This association has been the driving force behind most of the social events that take place in the neighbourhood, they collect resources, efforts, and money to support the family that holds an event whether that planned as a wedding or a sudden loss of a family member. 

The association’s weekly gatherings are of great impact on the lives of these women and their status in their small society. The females created culture in our society and the traditions they have, have formed our conception of a home and how we view these small clusters that take place in every house.

Today, this association holds 15 members that are dedicated to the regulatory system it has, its activities and obligations. As they gather every Monday at a rotational base between their houses around the neighbourhood, the time spent there is passed between having a cup of tea or coffee along with dates, popcorn, cakes or pastries while discussing their lives, families and the neighbourhood’s matters. 

A Monday at the neighbour’s house:

Defined geographically, each neighbourhood has their own association and alliances. The one in my neighbourhood gathers each Monday in the afternoons to commence their activity. A very relaxed atmosphere where these women welcome the different interests they have. I was presented with a large plate of fruits and sweets with a cup of “Shai Laban” while Khalto Fatima – our host-  explained to me that she was living in this same house when the association began over 30 years ago. She has seen women and their families move in and out of the neighbourhood for different reasons. 

Chatters continue all around the house while Khalto Amal takes out the association’s book. The notebook she is in charge of to keep track of the Association’s Fund. A small  weekly amount (صرفة) is paid to the host of the gathering to support her and the hospitality of that meeting. 

A round with the number of the members is created to alternate the hosting of the weekly meeting and the weekly fund. This fund is rotated to assist the women in their needs as  they could agree to hand it to whoever is in need for money that week. While a monthly amount is is collected from each member to keep as a Charity Fund or emergency money for sudden family losses. The association usually takes care of preparing and funding the first meal that is needed after the death of someone in the neighbourhood. They do this, to lift weight from the family of the event as the shock of the sudden loss might prevent them from catering to the many many guests that arrive. 

In Khalto Amal’s notebook, she keeps track of those payments while she collects the weekly amount from the attendees. She keeps county the cash as Khalto Fatima continues to tell me that when they began this fund, they used to collect materials like team, soup, or sugar instead of money. Then slowly they started with one shilling, 15 cents, 25 cents, 5 pounds, …. Until in today’s money they pay 1000 Sudanese pounds. 

Tracking this system they created, illustrates the amount of political, economical and social changes the association has endured and lived through. Having in mind that the past 30 years have been some the most difficult in Sudan’s history with AlBashir’s regime. And those kind of attempts to social solidarity were a form of resistance and support in our communities. 

A scent of Bakhoor to pass around:

As we chatted about the history of the association, its members and system, a small bottle of Bakhoor (traditional scent) was passed on to me to smell while the woman who brought it was praising it’s making. In another corner my mother was going through a large bag of dresses and clothes that another member was showing her. A round of products are passed all around as the association’s gatherings also form a very rich environment to support and grow micro businesses within the neighbourhood. 

The women in the neighbourhood use this gathering as a way to bring their goods to the wholesome of the females around in one day while also receiving different orders from them. In different ways they exchange needs, resources and products. They even prepare for special occasions together in a solidarity optional manner. I attended a session in February while the women were preparing for the holy month of Ramadan in April as they discussed gathering again soon to start the steps for making (Hilo Mur – حلو مر) – a traditional drink made in Ramadan that goes through a long process. 

Those kind of subsidiary activities are of many reasons why many women choose to part of this community that functions in a way that ensures everyone’s needs are met and catered for. 

My grandmother and her symboled plates:

I remember as a child, my grandmother had a deep connection with her neighbours in AlSahafa yet kept a small distance from the association’s extra activities. I recall the marks she had underneath her plates to differentiate them from others’ plates. Each housewife would mark her plates and pans a special symbol for when there’s an event happening, they gather plates from the association’s members to use all together to serve the guests. After the event each member would easily know which plates and tools are hers and which belong to whom. 

The association in her old neighbourhood has a fund specifically for utilities. As they gather money from the members to buy plates, pans, ladles and such to use collectively in special and large social occasions. Each member can make use of those utilities while ensuring she gives back the number of item she took, and in case of loss of a plate or so, she is required to replace it with either the same item or the amount of money it costs to replace it.

This connection my grandmother had with her neighbours, had her still willing to contribute her monthly amount to the association’s fund even after she moved to a different area and was no longer involved in their regular meetings. This, to me, shows how these clusters form more than just their financial and social purposes, they are in fact a foundation to many friendships, ties and bonds created between the women who are part of them and their families as well.